Tuesday, September 21, 2010

The Evolution of Apple Cake

It all started with this recipe for Crunchy Topped Whole Wheat Plum Cake. I liked the look of it. I liked the fact that it used whole wheat flour, because I’m always seeking ways to make both delicious and healthy (or not unhealthy) things. Those couple of tablespoons of Cognac or brandy – I bet they would combine with that nutty whole wheat goodness in a delightful way.

Plus, I had a ton of apples at home. Yes, apples – not plums. The minute I saw this recipe, I knew I was going to make it with apples. This summer’s fruit share has given us pounds and pounds of apples, which haunt the back corners of the fridge. The early apples were mealy, not good for eating fresh, but I knew I could bake with them, so they stayed. During the heat of the summer, though, there was no way I was turning on the oven. Most evenings I tried to avoid even using a burner.

The apples waited.

I knew the cake would be delicious with apples. There was nothing about this cake that needed the flavor of plums (although I’m sure it’s also delicious with plums). So last week I whipped up a cake, following the recipe exactly, only replacing the apples with plums.

It was… good. Fine. Solidly okay. Apple slices, of course, are less juicy than slices of plum, so they didn’t really need to be tossed with flour. Sprinkled on top of the cake, they didn't cook down so much as dry out. But the cake element was yum and tasted great with the apples.

Last night, the air was cool. I put on a sweater and read outside until the light failed, then came indoors and poured a couple of fingers of Snap into a glass over ice. It tasted of warm ginger and molasses. I felt like baking.

This time I tweaked the recipe. We were out of brandy, so I substituted in a vanilla liquor and cut the vanilla. Chopped the apples into small chunks and folded them into the batter before spreading it into the pan. I also used a smaller pan to get a thicker cake. Finally, a handful of chopped walnuts scattered the top, and over them, the dusting of sugar.

I considered adding crystallized ginger or some ground cardamom, but I didn’t want to go overboard. I do think that either would have been delicious – perhaps next time.

There will definitely be a next time. In fact, I may just make this once a week. First, there are all those apples to use up. And second, it’s wonderful. It tastes like autumn in the best possible way, warm and wholesome and sweet and good. Not too sweet, it works for breakfast, tea, or dessert. Success.

Whole Wheat Apple Cake

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus more to grease pan

3 medium apples, pitted and chopped

1 1/4 cups whole-wheat flour

1/2 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup sugar

2 tablespoons Cognac or brandy (or vanilla liquor)

1 teaspoon vanilla (eliminate if using vanilla liquor)

1 large egg

1/2 cup milk

2 tablespoons Demerara sugar, for sprinkling

1/3 cup chopped walnuts, for sprinkling

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Grease a 9-by-9-inch baking pan.

Combine the whole-wheat flour with the baking powder and kosher salt in a bowl.

In another bowl, beat together butter, ½ cup sugar, booze and vanilla (if using) until light and fluffy. Add the egg and beat until thoroughly combined.

Add half the flour mixture and beat until just combined. Pour in the milk and continue beating, scraping down the bowl as necessary. Add the remaining flour mixture and beat until just combined.

Add the apples and fold them into the batter with a spatula. There will seem to be a very proportion of apples to batter.

Scrape the dough into the pan, smoothing the top with a spatula. Sprinkle the walnuts and then the Demerara sugar on top. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until the top is golden brown. Transfer to a wire rack to cool before serving.


Monday, September 6, 2010

The Fastest Dinner in Philly

The ginger beer is coming along. With two batches down, I have yet to achieve the perfect balance of overpowering ginger flavor and delicate carbonation. More tinkering will be done. I'll share when I've gotten the recipe just right.

That's not actually my excuse for not blogging. My completely excellent excuse is that the Philly Live Arts and Fringe Festival is on, and I'm seeing 24 shows in two weeks. So far, six down (three fantastic, two good, one meh), 18 to go by September 15.

I did this kind of manic theater race last year, too, and it was a blast -- but it doesn't lend itself to awesome cooking experiences. I'm lucky to cram a slice of pizza into my mouth while biking from venue to venue.

Tonight, however, I felt the need for a wholesome, light yet filling home-cooked meal, so I turned to a recipe that I made up years ago. It's so simple, in fact, that I blush to call it a recipe. However, it's delicious, quick, and actually pretty good for you.

Soba Salad

soba noodles
lettuce
sesame oil
seasoned rice vinegar
some sort of protein -- chicken, steak, tofu, whatever -- if desired

Put some salted water on to boil. When it reaches a full boil, drop in 1-2 packets of soba noodles (These come bound with a plastic ribbon, several to the package. I'm sure they have a proper name, but I don't know it.) Stir. Check the noodles at 4 minutes, no matter what the package says. If you buy them at an Asian grocery store, as I do, you may not be able to read the package anyway. Because it's in Japanese.

While the water boils and the noodles cook, wash the lettuce. Roughly chop as much as you want and arrange in a heap on the plates.

Stir together equal parts sesame oil and seasoned rice vinegar (about 1.5 teaspoons of each for two servings) in a cup.

If you want protein, cook it up. Season with salt and pepper. A quick fry will do nicely.

When the soba is done, with a bit of give left in the soft noodles, drain and rinse with cold water until barely warm. Mound noodles on top of the lettuce. Drizzle dressing over the salad. Top with protein slices.

That's it. Takes about 10 minutes, if you get your timing right. Yum.